Here's "The Mormon's" thoughts on last week's  Bertha Swell, teaching a co-worker to surf and breakfast. The Mormon has written a few guest blog posts in the past and entries from others are always welcome here on B-Town Surf!. If you feel the need have something (blog entries, advertisements, announcements, etc.....just try to keep it somewhat water relevant) posted on the site, just send to me at b-townsurf@hotmail.com  As long as it's not too, too over the top, I'll post it.

  And now...The Mormon!

"With Bertha now long gone, I can sit back and reflect on a fine week of surfing.  It was so nice to drive a mere 15 minutes and catch some waves at Nantasket Beach in the summer.  The journey begins last Monday night when Ando and I met Corporate Jack, his son and nephews for a session.  Ando detailed that session in a previous post, but let me say this, it was a great session. 

On Tuesday morning, my brother, BOM-mer met me at my place and we headed off.  At 1^st we were going to make the trip to the Cape and hit it there.  Before we started on that journey, we decided to make a side trip to Nantasket to see if the waves were still good there. Why travel 90 minutes, when you can travel 15!  The waves at Nantasket were good, so we paddled out for a nice 2 ½ hour session.  Although, there were some annoying swimmers in the break, we managed to have a great time. 

After a little nap and some food, BOM-mer and I headed back to Nantasket for a late afternoon session.  Ando met us in the line-up and all three of us proceeded to rip it up.  I must admit that arms and shoulders were killing me when I finally left the water some 2 ½ hours later.  Three sessions in 24 hours really take a lot out of you, especially when there were so many waves to choose!

I couldn’t make Wednesday’s session due to me being totally wiped out from the previous two days.  So, I set my eyes on a Friday morning session.  My friend Kristen from work once inquired about learning how surf.  I said to her that she was more than welcome to paddle out with me on Friday morning, waves permitting.  Before going to bed, the Boston buoy was showing a nice swell all day and night.  Things were looking good for the morning.

Rolling out of bed on Friday morning, I checked the Boston buoy and the Nantasket webcam.  Both looked great and off to the beach I went.  Kristen arrived shortly after I did and kitted up in one of my wetsuits.  I brought my longboards with me; Robert August Mark Martinson 10’ single fin (my workhorse) and Robert August Mike Doyle 10’ tri-fin.  Kristen looked a bit nervous.  I tried to alleviate her nerves by saying “Just have fun.  Remember, the great surfer in the world is the one having the most fun” 

On the beach I showed Kristen how to wax a surfboard, then it was off to the water.  The waves were waist high, super clean and hardly a trace of wind.  I left my board on the beach and out into the surf we went.  For a good 20 minutes I showed Kristen how to catch a wave.  After a few misses, she stood up on a wave.  A smile wider than the beach was across her face...she was hooked.  When Kristen paddled back out she hollered for me to go get my board. 

For the next two hours we had a lot of fun in the water.  My form had returned and I was catching some nice rides.  Kristen really impressed me, by catching a few nice waves herself.  One wave stood out the most though.  As I was paddling back to the line-up after a nice ride, I saw a wave outside coming in which was a bit bigger than most.  I yelled to Kristen that there was one coming, but she confused it with the one that was almost on her.  I honestly thought the wave was going to break right on top of her, which it did.  However, she went down the face of the wave (about chest high) holding on for dear life.  The look on her face was multifaceted...fear, exhilaration and joy. 

As the wave rolled, I thought she was going to get rolled, but she didn’t.  Kristen held on and got up for a nice whitewater ride into shore.  When she jumped off the board her smile was even bigger than before, she was totally stoked.  She now knows what the rest of us surfers know.  I was very proud of her, hell she surfed better than I did on my first time out.  Welcome to the club Kristen! 

After 2 hours in the water, it was time to get some food.  We went to the world famous in Massachusetts Newcomb Farms restaurant in Milton for a hearty breakfast.  Ok, that was a blatant plug for Newcomb Farms.  I know the owner David, who is also on my hockey team.  He’s a good defenseman with a hell of a shot, not too mention the food at his restaurants are the best deal for the buck.

Until next time, pray for surf and Aloha!"

*** The Mormon is a avid surfer, hockey player, cyclist and combat vet of Gulf War I. He is employed by a public safety agency on the South Shore, is a college graduate..and an American citizen.